From my bed, I can look out the window into the sunroom and
see a souvenir from our most memorable vacation hanging on the wall. It is an
incredibly thick braid of sweet grass, burned at one end. If you go to a
powwow, you can find sweet grass braids but they are much smaller. There is
quite a story surrounding the sweet grass and I'll try to relate it as best I
can.
Because of my MS, Janet and I vacation in the North every
summer to try and stay cool. We decided to head further up that we had ever
gone, to Prince Edward Island. Since we didn't know much about it, as a
librarian it was my job to research it. I ordered a bunch of books through
interlibrary loan and downloaded articles off our databases. Janet's job was
working on the Internet. To make things easier for Janet on the trip and
because we enjoy her company, Janet Louise joined us on our great adventure. We
became the traveling trio of Pam and the Janets.
We were excited to find out that there was an Indian preserve
on PEI. We have always enjoyed Native American culture and try to integrate it
into all of our vacations. Lennox Island on PEI was going to be a definite
point of interest for us.
When we crossed over the bridge onto Lennox Island, we could
tell it was an impoverished area. The houses were small and old, the roads were
rough and there were no streetlights. The biggest and best kept buildings were
the church and the visitor’s center/café. The visitor’s center seemed to be
brand-new and I was immediately struck by the fact that it was totally wheelchair
accessible although we knew there were no disability laws in Canada. When we
went in, we noticed an artist and his assistant painting indigenous designs on
the walls. Janet Louise, as the most gregarious one of our party, struck up a
conversation with the artist. His name was Red Feather and he was a traveling
artist hired by the tribe to decorate their new center and restaurant.
The center was closed at the moment but the restaurant was
open and the artist invited us to eat with him. The food was the best we have
found so far and because it was on the reserve, there were fewer taxes. I think
he was intrigued by my positive attitude in spite of my disability and even
more so by Janet Louise. He introduced us to the restaurant manager and his
friend. Once they realized we were lesbians, after the restaurant closed, they
brought all their gay friends over. I met more gay folks in one night than I
had in years. We even met the official Bacardi Drag Queen for the province.
Although Red Feather was not gay, he enjoyed the gathering.
He invited us back the next evening after the restaurant
closed to watch/help with a painting of a turtle he was going to do on the
ceiling. Apparently the tribe, known as Micmac in English, adopted the turtle
as their tribal symbol. Ironically, it also happens to be my favorite animal
partly because of the significance it has in Native American mythology. Of
course we all agreed to come back the next evening. How could we not?
When we got there the next evening many of our new friends
were there along with a number of the youth of the tribe. In spite of many of
the kid’s insecurities about painting or climbing ladders, within a half an
hour Red Feather had them all helping out like professionals measuring and
making pencil outlines. Then Red Feather made the final outline with painters
tape and everyone helped fill it in. I was shocked when he asked me to climb
the ladder and do the last bit. At this point, I was able to walk using a
walker but spent most of my time on the scooter. I felt understandably doubtful
about climbing the ladder and only agreed when he said he would climb behind me
so I wouldn't fall down and Janet would stand next to me on the ground so I
wouldn't fall over hopefully. I did manage to climb up and I did the last few
brushstrokes on the turtle's shell.
He said that by helping with the painting, a piece of my
soul would always be with the Micmacs on Lennox Island. I would always be drawn
to return there. It was a rather intense experience. Apparently, Janet took
pictures during the entire time. The lighting and reflections that showed in
the pictures were not there at the time she was taking them. Again, it was
intense…
Red Feather invited us back the next night for something
special for me. He told the Janets what he had planned but would not tell me.
When we told the women that ran the bed and breakfast where we were staying
about our adventures thus far, they assured us that there was more to see on
PEI then Lennox Island. For me however, what had happened so far was much more
exciting and interesting than going to see the Anne of Green Gables theme park
for example.
Each time we met with our friends on Lennox Island, we
learned new things about their history and culture. They referred to themselves
as "First Nation People." They referred to homosexuals as “two
spirits" and were much more excepting as a culture to our lifestyle. They
told us a few stories about tribal history. The Micmacs on Lennox Island had
always been ruled by men but as time passed, they began having financial
difficulties. They voted women into the Tribal Council and the tribe began to
prosper. Another story they told us was about the recent history of the island.
Until about 25 years ago, there was no bridge onto the island. When they needed
to go to the mainland, in the summer they would row over but in the winter they
had to walk across the ice. This was very dangerous especially when the
thickness of the ice wasn't reliable. One day, a pregnant woman who wanted
items for the coming baby tried to get the mainland and fell through. She was
rescued and the baby was fine… We met her as an adult! Because of this new
disaster, the Province finally approved the funding for the bridge.
We ate dinner at the restaurant again with our newfound
friends and after dinner most of them left except for Red Feather and Leslie,
the restaurant manager. Red Feather informed me that as a tribal elder, he
could make me an honorary member of the Micmac tribe. He gave me a name, Two
Trees. He said I had to figure out what the name meant to me. It did not matter
why he chose it. Since my legs were such an issue for me at the time, the name
symbolized my legs remaining strong like two trees.
He then asked, as one who practices the old ways, if he could
bless me. Of course I agreed. He lit one end of the sweet grass braid and
prayed in his language while moving it slowly around me to clear any bad energy.
This went on for 15 or 20 min. When he was done I was feeling pretty drained. I
heard him tell Janet that he thought I could use the blessing considering what
might be in store for me in the future because of the MS. He then blessed the
Janets so we would have a safe journey. We invited him over for breakfast the
next day and while eating he made his intentions towards Janet Louise very
clear. She explained again about her sexual preference and after some more
chatting, he went on his way without unpacking his teepee from his truck. We
continued in our exploration of PEI.
When we got home Janet burned copies of the pictures she had
taken onto CDs and sent one to the tribal school since so many kids were
involved with the painting and she found Red Feather on the Internet and send
him a copy as well. She hung the braid on the wall in the sunroom and when the
breeze comes in through the open windows just right, it wafts the sweet scent
throughout the front of the house.
We've gone back several times to PEI and each time
connected with a few of the friends we had made. Each time the tribal community
seemed to be doing better. Although the restaurant closed, pipes were being
laid so that all houses would have running water and the main road would be
repaved afterword. On the third floor of the visitor center, dorms were being
built for a youth training center. Thte
restaurant would be the cafeteria. Although it'd be repainted, I could still
see the outline of the turtle on the ceiling. I was sorry to see the painting
go, but I was glad to see how the tribe had prospered.
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